Namtok splashes around Satun
The boy about 13 years old showed in white lettering on his red t-shirt the words “No Rules.” Another teenaged boy sported white lettering on a black t-shirt: “Punk’s Not Dead.” A young woman, showing on her black t-shirt the white lettering: “I know my phone number. How about you?”
These t-shirts and their messages are nothing new or different to nearly all farang teachers in Thailand. Indeed, we see them on our students in our respective counties each day (whether in school or out).
The thing that makes such t-shirts remarkable is the fact that I see these and other t-shirts on the young people of Satun province, Thailand. Satun is one of the 5 provinces in the South of Thailand, bordering Malaysia, that are 90% Mulsim in a country of 63 million Thais, 94% of whom are Buddhist. I have been living and teaching English in Satun since February 2005.
Three of the five provinces are gripped by an Islamo-fascist Jihadist insurrection that began on Jan 1, 2004 and which has resulted in the killing of hundreds of Thais and the destruction of property totaling in the tens of millions of Baht. A special target of the “insurgents” are Thai government schools and their Thai teachers, with countless government schools having been burned to destruction during numerous nights since the revolt began. Monks have had their throats slashed. An ancient and historic mosque in one province was siezed by the Jihadists, prompting the Thai army to storm it, kill every Jihadist while shooting and blasting holes in the revered mosque.
So what in hell am I and other farang teachers of different nationalities doing here in the midst of all of the carnage and danger?!? Are we in our right minds? That we are in Satun province attests to the fact that we are in our right minds. Satun rejects the Islamofascist Jihadist conception of a pan-Islamic state controlled by the Jihadists that would span southern Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, the southern Phillipines and Indonesia. The t-shirts are one statement that the Muslims of Satun reject that message.
Yes, the t-shirts. On the t-shirt of one young Muslim woman: “You Can’t Be The First, But You Can Be The Next One.” Other t-shirts seen in Satun: “Scorpion”, “Linkin Park”, “F*ck Off”, “Caffine Is My Co-pilot”, “Vodaphone”, “Siemens”, “Calvin Klein”, “Nature Jeans”, “Super Bowl Champion Carolina Panthers.” There are many more such t-shirts in Satun province. There are many liberal Muslims in Satun.
Who are they? Where do they come from? Most Muslims in Satun province originate from south-central Asia, especially Afghanistan. They for generations have escaped war in Afghanistan, the teeming cities of Pakistan, religious strife in India, the poverty of Bangladesh. Why Satun? The three provinces experiencing strife were already settled and populated with an established identity which was not open to change or adaptation. The lightly populated Satun offered these Muslims the occasion to establish their own place as they sought the Thai way of life of personal freedom, minimal laws, weak instiutions of society and strong individuals. Most Muslims in Satun province admire and respect the West and its freedoms and liberties, to include democracy which, however, remains limited in Thailand. Satun Muslims are appalled by the Jihadists yet openly state their concern about Palestine and their fear that US President George W. Bush is waging a war on Islam (I try to be reassuring that the Jihadists are the target).
Satun is ripe territory for farangs who want to teach English. There is a “maga-development” project underway, supported strongly by the national government in Bangkok. Roads currently are being widened, built for more traffic and heavier loads. Next comes the harbor redevelopment project to connect Satun and Thailand to Singapore, Hong Kong, the Phillipines, Indonesia, Australia and New Zealand. The extension of rail connections throughout Satun. The tourism industry. The people of Satun now know they need to learn English. The backwater province is in process of becoming international. People in Satun are beginning to meet people whose common (learned) language is English.
So, with my bilingual Thai associate, I opened a language school for study after normal daily school hours and on weekends. I have a magnificent Muslim woman teacher for the children. This young woman wears the traditional Muslim headscarf (this isn’t France!) and advises me that she prays for the success of the school. (I don’t advise her that I don’t pray!!) She has a Bachelor and Master degree, respectively, in the English language. She’s a highly valued and respected full time faculty member of a local government high school. She, too, knows that Satun is ready to learn English.
A Thai male Muslim teacher who likes to go by an English name took me to a Muslim prayer meeting of teachers one evening, after which we dined on excellent Muslim food. The Thai teacher is a founding member of “The English Club” of local residents who learn as much English as they can. They help one another to read, learn vocabulary, listen to the English language broadcasts from Malaysia. They come to my classes. One, a barber, cuts my hair for free while simultaneously sharpening up his English.
So, the handful of farang teachers in Satun province (six besides myself at present) are not exactly out of our minds. The Satun Muslim is not out of his mind either. Each we and they are rational, reasonable and friendly. I’ve been teaching English in East Asia for ten consecutive years and the population of Satun is eagar to learn English. They make it easy for we farang teachers in Satun, in Thailand’s restive South.
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